I know these are currently out of fashion but I’m still thankful they exist.

Let’s remind ourselves of devices that use(d) these standardized batteries:

  • Toys
  • Digital cameras
  • Torches
  • Gadgets like fans
  • Wireless keyboards
  • TV remotes

Thanks to having a standardized system of batteries,

  • You can use the same battery across several devices. This is a no brainer but it’s very practical.
  • Batteries can charge quicker thanks to being put in a dedicated charger and not being limited by USB cables. (But yes I concede that USB has been updated for faster charging over the years)
  • Devices don’t have down time when their battery is charging. To charge, the battery is removed from the device and can immediately be replaced with a fresh one.
  • You’ll never have to trash a device due to an expired battery. Just buy a replacement. And building on this…
  • Any improvements in future battery technology can be retro-fitted into your existing devices. And there is a high incentive for future improvement, because…
  • An accessible (due to easy replacement) and large (due to many devices) battery market is very attractive to competition.

If you look at the pros I listed, they all happen to be things that would be very useful for electric cars. So I think it would aid the adoption of electric cars if their batteries were standardized too.

  • snowfalldreamland@lemmy.ml
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    1 year ago

    Tipp for people wanting to get into rechargeable AA and AAAs: get IKEA Ladda batteries and their charger. They are cheap and japanese made. Some people argue that they are just relabeled Panasonic eneloops!

    Edit: Oh also if you used rechargeable batteries in the past and you remember them sucking that’s probably true. But the battery chemistry is better now and it’s possible that your batteries degraded quickly because of “dumb” chargers. Modern chargers like the gray 4 battery Ikea charger detect how and for how long to charge and thus will not ruin the batteries.

    • Slitted@beehaw.org
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      1 year ago

      LADDA are my go-to as well. I recommended going with the wall charges and not the USB-A charger, since the latter juices them up very slowly (compared to the wall outlet or the storage+charge box).

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        1 year ago

        The two cells tested in that video are different. The Ladda 2450 mAh is equivalent to the black wrapped Eneloop Pro, but the video only tests the standard white Eneloops which have less capacity but a better cycle life rating. This is honestly one of the most disappointing videos I’ve seen from Project Farm, he didn’t test most of what makes a cell better/worse.

        Whether or not they are identical cells, from what I’ve read there is only one factory in Japan that makes NiMH cells, so the Eneloops and the Ladda come from the same factory and are therefore likely to be very similar.

    • quicksand@lemm.ee
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      1 year ago

      Thanks for the info! It’s incredible how much the quality of batteries and chargers vary. It’s good to know a cheap easy place to get them

  • abhibeckert@beehaw.org
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    1 year ago

    Those batteries in your photo are NiMH batteries… which discharge on their own at a fairly rapid rate even if you’re not using them at all. They’re also pretty big and heavy for the amount of power they provide (which, due to the self-discharge issue, is effectively a lot lower than the official number on the battery).

    I strongly recommend investing in devices that use 18650 batteries. They’re about the same size/weight as a AA, and they last much longer (both in terms of from full to flat and also the number of years (decades?) of use you’ll get from the battery.

    A lot of “proprietary” batteries are in fact a bunch of 18650 cells wired together.

    It’s worth investing in good ones - the quality varies significantly from brand to the next. With a good 18650 cell, you won’t be replacing it when the battery expires, you’ll be transferring it to a new gadget when the gadget is broken or so old that you decided to buy a new/better model.

      • Burp@kbin.social
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        1 year ago

        Same. People used low quality Ni-Mh batteries and got what they paid for. Eneloops have worked great for me. Believe it or not, Duracell has been great too. It’s the energizers that have all been awful for me.

      • I_Miss_Daniel@kbin.social
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        1 year ago

        I second that. Have been migrating devices over to eneloop batteries successfully. (other NiMH batteries go flat after a month even if not used.)

    • admiralteal@kbin.social
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      1 year ago

      For example, basically all power tool batteries.

      If they advertise ~12V, it usually means it is 3 ‘cells’ of 18650s in series. Crack open the case on such a tool battery and you’ll find just that – 3 18650 batteries for a little one. A high capacity battery might instead of 6, with 3 pairs of 2 parallel batteries, doubling the capacity. And nothing but weight and size stops them from just making them ever-larger.

      18-20v tools are 6 cells (18v is the nominal voltage, 20v is the ‘max’ voltage at full charge). For higher cap, add more batteries in parallel in each series cell.

      It is RARE to be able to service these unless you have some specialized skills. Typically, they are spot welded together, which can be dangerous to attempt to DIY. That said, often when a battery ‘fails’, it’s actually just one 18650 that has failed and taken the others down with it.

      These days you do see other sizes. 21700s or even pouch batteries are starting to be more common when tools need more stored joules per unit volume.

      • abhibeckert@beehaw.org
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        18-20v tools are 6 cells

        That’s not my experience - my preferred brand* offers 18V batteries at 3Ah, 6Ah and 9Ah. They also have higher end tools that take 56V batteries - either 4Ah or 8Ah.

        I haven’t opened them up to check, but surely the higher capacity batteries have more cells.

        (* preferred brand because it’s the one I already have a bunch of batteries for… I actually regret choosing that brand)

        That said, often when a battery ‘fails’, it’s actually just one 18650 that has failed and taken the others down with it.

        Sure… but if you replace that one “bad” cell before it takes down the others, the battery might spontaneously combust and burn down your house while you’re (hopefully?) not home. 18650’s in series have to be the same voltage throughout the charge cycle.

        • admiralteal@kbin.social
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          The charger for the tool batteries has to have circuits to get all individual cells to the same voltage. They are not simply charging them all at once in series. More complex than that, but there is a second circuit for an alternate config that the charger can make use of to charge.

          If one cell is dying/dead, it stops the whole battery from working. Replacing that individual cell would allow the others that are still performing nominally to continue to do so. If it were practical to change one cell. Which it really isn’t. But old tool batteries can be a good place to cannibalize 18650s from if you need them for other uses because a “dead” battery likely still has at least some OK 18650s in it.

          The 56-60V tools just has triples of all the batteries with an additional circuit path to let them either function in the 18V 5s or 56v 15s configuration, depending on what it is plugged into. Similar story with the brands advertising 40V tools. There’s a reason they’re all staying on multiples of the 18-20V base.

          I literally said there can be more 18650s for each series cell. The “not your experience” you referenced is… exactly the same thing I said. Though it is actually 5 18650s for a base battery, not 6, I misremembered that. 3.7V x 5 cells = 18.5V (which some brands advertise as a max 20V to make the number bigger while others just call it 18V). Each cell is 2.4 Ah, which gets you the base battery capacity. The even-smaller cells are either using pouch batteries or something else that isn’t an 18650.

    • Voyajer@kbin.social
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      1 year ago

      18650s are in no way close to the same size as AA batteries. Your other points ring true and I generally agree with them though.

    • Nawor3565@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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      1 year ago

      While all this is true, unfortunately not many devices support swappable 18650s, either they have swappable AA/AAA or have built-in 18650s that would require disassembly to replace. However, if you CAN find a device with swappable 18650s (the only ones I’ve found so far are flashlights) they’re absolutely great!

      • Bobbinapples@kbin.social
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        1 year ago

        I am not aware of many devices that use swappable 18650’s either. Off the top of my head the only ones i’m aware of are vape devices.

        • B0rax@feddit.de
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          1 year ago

          There are also flashlights with 18650s. There are some powerbanks with exchangeable 18650s as well.

          But that’s all I know of.

          • ChaoticNeutralCzech@lemmy.ml
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            1 year ago

            These powerbanks can set your house on fire if the chip shorts out: the wire gets very hot and melts through the plastic like this: Odysee/YT/Piped. I recommend installing a 2A (for 1A powerbanks) or 5A (for 2.1A powerbanks) automobile fuse in series with the cells or each cell individually.

        • lloram239@feddit.de
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          They do, they are called “14500” (the name is the dimensions of the battery). Though it is important to remember that, despite looking exactly the same as a regular AA, they are 3.7V, so they’ll kill your regular 1.5V electronics if you put them in there. Not sure what they are actually used in, flashlights I assume, but they seem quite rare overall.

          Only place I have seen them commonly used is solar powered garden lights, though in that case they are LiFePO4 3.2V, not Li-Ion 3.7V.

        • abhibeckert@beehaw.org
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          1 year ago

          But 18650 size is manufactured at much higher scales than other sizes, and therefore it’s the cheapest, and therefore it continues to dominate.

        • anlumo@feddit.de
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          Besides being the wrong size by definition, AA batteries are expected to have 0.8V to 1.5V, while Lithium Ion cells (such as 18650) have a voltage range of 2V to 4.2V. That’s completely incompatible, you couldn’t even replace two AA batteries with a single Li-Ion cell.

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              1 year ago

              Don’t they need a circuit protection to not over-discharge lithium batteries? Most AA devices would suck all the juice from the battery until it stops working.

    • SubArcticTundra@lemmy.mlOP
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      1 year ago

      Oh I see, I’ll look into them. Yeah these are at least 10yrs old so I wouldn’t be surprised if the technology was quite bad for today’s standards

    • Pete Hahnloser@beehaw.org
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      I had some Molicel (I want to say, P26s) 18650s in regular rotation that lasted only three years. I went through Mooch’s battery reviews ahead of selecting them, purchsed them at Liionwholesale, and they started heating up in my Nitecore one by one after maybe 1,200 full discharge (e-cig) cycles. Meanwhile, I have vape-shop NCRs from 2016 still humming along (though rarely used).

      At this point, I’m not really sure what to make of battery reviews. And the economics work fine for three years of consistent use. I just wish that was how they were sold, not like some absurd number you’ll never hit.

    • SubArcticTundra@lemmy.mlOP
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      Oh I see, I’ll look into them. Yeah these are at least 10yrs old so I wouldn’t be surprised if the technology was quite bad for today’s standards

  • guyrocket@kbin.social
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    1 year ago

    Thank you for this post.

    I actively avoid buying things with a built in battery. Long ago I spend a pretty good amount on a rechargeable Braun electric razor. A few years later I had to throw it away because the battery stopped taking a charge and I had no way to replace it. I had a drill with the same fate. There was plenty of life left in these devices but not in their custom batteries.

    • Bobbinapples@kbin.social
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      I refuse to buy cordless powertools. I know it’s not exactly the same as built-in batteries, but In their short existence, I have already seen proprietary rechargeable batteries become discontinued (My mom wanted to get an extra battery for a handheld vacuum, couldn’t find the battery by itself, so bought what she thought was the same model; nope, they changed the battery design, even though the rest of the new vacuum was the same as the old one)

      • CmdrShepard@lemmy.one
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        Cordless power tools are absolutely worth it, if you use them even infrequently, and every single contactor I know uses them. The battery packs are ridiculously priced but they wouldn’t be used so ubiquitously (especially by professionals) if they weren’t worth the drawbacks. Having to string out extension cords for every tool would be a nightmare.

        • Pigeon@beehaw.org
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          I dunno, if you use them infrequently, having to string out a cord shouldn’t be any more of a hassle than for a vacuum, no?

          And if you’re buying a cheap, probably-won’t-use-this much tool, I think you can get better power out of a corded tool for the price, which seems like a god tradeoff to me.

      • Burp@kbin.social
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        1 year ago

        It’s be way harder for me to go back to corded tools. Li-Po tools are incredibly convenient. I’ve been able to buy adapters for dewalt batteries that make them work with all kinds of tools and devices (including an adapter for a Dyson handheld vacuum).
        Lightweight, powerful, and the batteries can be swapped (as well as a decent amount of aftermarket batteries and adapters).

        • guyrocket@kbin.social
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          I have a few, select cordless tools. Drill is the first that comes to mind. I also have a corded drill because it was cheap to buy and has much more torque than the cordless.

          Hmmm. Drill might be the only one. Most of my use is around the house so not a lot of need for cordless.

    • B0rax@feddit.de
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      The batteries in Braun razors are replaceable. They even sell those. It’s not terribly difficult, but you need basic solder skills.

    • wjrii@kbin.social
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      1 year ago

      If you’re in the US, Ryobi has changed chemistries once or twice, but they haven’t changed the voltage or physical format of their batteries for 20+ years.

  • LollerCorleone@kbin.social
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    1 year ago

    I still use them for my TV and AC remotes, flashlights and wall clocks.

    I never realised that many people don’t need to use it anymore.

    • UnhappyCamper@kbin.social
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      Yeah, to me this seems like such a strange post. I can easily pick up batteries at most stores I go to and use them in various stuff in my home. Never thought about them phasing out right now, but when I think about it I guess it’s true, I see a lot of gadgets that just charge with USB plugs now.

    • Scrubbles@poptalk.scrubbles.tech
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      1 year ago

      People don’t use them? Rechargeables are so easy and alkaline are so expensive! Rechargeables are about the same price now as alkaline but you get to continually recharge them forever! Why aren’t people doing that???

  • thingsiplay@kbin.social
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    @SubArcticTundra Also add XBox game controllers to the list. I have multiple pair of rechargeable batteries. It’s way better than having integrated batteries like in the PS controllers. I can just swap the set out for a full set, right away. Doing this since Xbox 360.

  • LucyLastic@beehaw.org
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    1 year ago

    My Garmin Montana GPS uses 3 AA batteries and it’s really handy if you’re in an area without mains electricity since carrying a an extra set (or even buying alcalines in a pinch) will get you going again!

  • ConsciousCode@beehaw.org
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    I use rechargeable interchangeable batteries wherever I can, but I recently ran into some issues with an ultra-cheap BDC “massage” pillow. The OCP in the batteries was getting triggered and the motor would stop and start spinning for 10 seconds at a time. Tried to add small value resistors and capacitors to it but nothing worked and I had to get a pack of alkaline. Only now do I remember I have a bunch of spare 18650s and USB battery charging boards that I could’ve retrofitted!

        • corm@beehaw.org
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          In parallel. The capacitor smooths out the power and keeps it from spiking and shutting down over and over.

          A resistor (in series) would help too but might restrict power too much to work well.

          No harm in adding a capacitor.

          On almost all my projects the weird behavior has been solved by throwing a cap in it

  • happyhippo@feddit.it
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    Invest in a solid charger (30-40€ will do). You’ll keep it for years, it’ll charge an odd number of batteries as well (unlike some cheap ones that only charge in pairs) and it charges just the right amount, then stops. Some even have battery test/discharge function, and charge more than just AA/AAA.

    Then invest in a bunch of rechargeables, possibly Eneloops or something good from Amazon.

    Now profit for years to come. The planet will thank you as well.

    Honestly single use consumer batteries should be banned.

  • MonkderZweite@feddit.ch
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    1 year ago

    That’ why i actively look for battery instead of akku in some wireless devices. They are the closest to universal akku size we’ve got. Now they only need to be flater. And charging over USB-C would be nice too.

    • dan@upvote.au
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      1 year ago

      Does “akku” mean a built-in battery? Google tells me it’s German or Finnish?

      • gigachad@feddit.de
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        1 year ago

        It is a German word (short for Akkumulator), but we call batteries that you can replace Akku too.

  • kent_eh@lemmy.ca
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    1 year ago

    The 18650 should have become the ubiquitous replacement in most applications, but nooo, the manufacturers had to go all proprietary and enforce even more planned obsolescence

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    1 year ago

    The downside is the volt is not 1.5volts. Its closer to 1.2volts. This is fine if you’re using 2 batteries for things like the TV remote. But when you’re using things that require more than 4 batteries, then you might get into some weirdness. I have a remote for my DSLR that sends infrared to the softbox. Every 10 shots, it would miss the shot. It turned out to be the batteries. It needed all 6Volts vs 4.8Volts.

    • nikt@lemmy.ca
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      1 year ago

      Alkaline batteries lose voltage as they drain, so 1.5V is at full charge but it drops down to about 1.2V very quickly and then stays at 1.0V - 1.2V for most of the alkaline battery’s operating life.

      NiMH batteries tend to consistently stay at their nominal voltage (1.2V) through their entire charge.

      So in other words, if you have devices that really expect exactly 1.5V per battery, they would only work with alkalines at the very top of their charge. Nowadays most non-garbage circuits should be designed to work just fine with anything above 1V per battery.

  • AItoothbrush@lemmy.zip
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    1 year ago

    Just saying modern devices could also have interchangable batteries. There are standard lipo pouch sizes and standard lithium cilinder sizes.